POR15 Application

Jan 2013

Rust removal and rust protection is key when rebuilding and old auto, it doesn’t matter what kind of car it is.  There are several products out there that are available to the consumer for rust protection, I chose to use POR15 solely based on the opinion of others I have talked to and their experiences with previous use of the product.     This resto won’t be seeing much moisture anyway.  I plan on driving the car, but never in any sort of weather.

We have been applying POR15 for several months now.  So far the POR15 has been a great product to use, easy, simple to apply and seemingly very efficient at what it does.   We have used it almost everywhere on the car except for outside panels that will be painted with color.   The entire underside and the inside areas have been coated, also parts that will be bolted back on have had an application as well.  We have used 1” throw away brushes and 2” foam rollers to apply all the POR15.  Larger flat areas were perfect for the foam rollers while the smaller, tighter areas had to have brushes to complete the coverage.  It can be sprayed as well but we were always applying as we worked in smaller areas so the brushes and rollers fit the job more appropriately for us.  

After trying to sand blast some of it off a few parts that were mistakenly coated I am very confident that nothing that happens in the lifetime of this car will allow any rust to rear its ugly head again.  This stuff is one very tough product.

These are just a few of the applied areas, there are several other parts that have been coated that are waiting on their turn to be painted and put back on the car.

 

 

Inner wheel house before it was welded back in for that extra 2" of clearance for the rear tires.

Passenger side front frame rail and transmission tunnel support before floor pans were welded back in.

 

A-1, First Class, Master Welders.  At least our hats think so!!!   :)

Me and Dad

Front end coated.

Again the front.

Inside of the fire wall, and I have decided to lose the original wiring harness and go with some "Painless" copper.

Original 9" rear end.  New gears though, "3.55"

Looks nice, dad must have applied this coat.

New custom outer wheel house and trunk close out.

New custom outer wheel house and trunk close out.

New floor pans after welded in and before seam sealer.

No rust allowed!!!

Getting ready to bolt on the new front end components.

Anti sway bar, front frame rails, cross member.

Engine is looking pretty good.

In push mode, I still need to get that last quarter welded in place.

 

 

 

New Front End Install

Jan 2013

Finally—time to start bolting on some of the new front end parts, although it will be temporary as most will have to come back off for painting the engine bay and inner fenders.  For right now though, we need it on to move the car around and get it over to paint.   Working in some colder weather for this bolt on type stuff is no big deal, just a good pair of work gloves to keep the frigid tools from chilling our fingers to the bone and the doors shut on the shop to block the wind and we’re all good. 

The new cross member had already been welded in place months ago and work on cleaning up the looks of the engine bay was pretty much complete.  One thing I missed when welding in the new side panels for the engine bay was leaving enough clearance in the side panels to allow access to install the upper A arms.  I had only left enough clearance for the A arms to work after installation.  Of course we discovered this as one the first things to bolt on would be the new upper A arms.  The remedy for this situation was not all that difficult, and only set us back by one day but none the less left me less than happy.  It flat out pissed me off!!

The fix consisted of me cutting part of my new engine bay side panels out and welding them back into place once the Upper A arms were installed.  The welds have been grinded smooth now and are ready to be filled and smoothed along with a few other things in the engine bay that need tidying up.  When the front end is unbolted and removed for paint, the upper A arms will have to stay in place and be dealt with (paint around them) as they can’t be removed from the car now without cutting the sheet metal again. 

Lower A arms, Upper A arms, Adjustable coil over shocks, power rack and pinion, anti sway bar and steering links pretty well rounds off this install.    

To get it back rolling again we already bolted on the rear end with just the leaf springs so we could put the old wheels and tires back on.  No new brakes, shocks or anything back there yet.  The front end, however with the new larger disc brakes will not accommodate the old wheels.  The wheels hit the new calipers and the pitmen so we set off to find a solution.  What we decided on was an easy fix without spending any money, first we took the calipers off.  With no hoses hooked up yet for the brakes this was a simple matter and they were placed off  to the side for later.  To deal with the wheels hitting the pitman we just used some washers stacked up as shims behind the wheel to move them out a bit. 

We are now ready to roll…

 

New front end as it came delivered, Christmas in August!!

 

Getting ready to bolt on some of the new stuff.

 

Old Ford Engineering

Factory power disc brakes.

Before  

New upper and lower A arms, coil overs and disc brakes. 

Temp install, will have to remove for paint.

Here you can see the notch I had to cut above the upper A arm to allow installation of A arm.

Anti Sway Bar, lower A arms, power rack and pinion.

 

 

Power rack and pinion, anti sway bar.

 

Common vantage point.

 

View from the inside.

 

 

Driver side engine bay panel with notch cut out to fit upper A arm.

 

Passenger side engine bay panel with notch cut out to fit upper A arm.

 

 

Back side of engine bay panel, getting ready to weld notch piece back in.  Using this piece to back up the piece that was cut out.

Inside of engine bay panel, getting ready to weld notch piece back in.  You can see the gap to allow welding between the panel and the notched out piece with patch in behind backing it up.  I will be connecting all three pieces with weld for a solid fit.

Welded in.  Not pretty but this steel is galvanized so it is tough to weld.

Welds ground down here, ready for Duraglas.

 

Rear end getting bolted into place.  New leaf srpings for now is all.  The rest will come after paint.  The rear end itself has been media blasted and coated twice with POR15.

 

Rolin...

 

Rollinnnn...